African American Pharmacists and the Hair and Beauty Industry
As the hair, beauty, and cosmetics fields continue to evolve through ongoing research and innovation, one group whose expertise is often underappreciated, yet crucial to the industry’s progress, is pharmacists. For centuries, pharmacists have played an essential and sometimes pivotal role in the beauty industry. Their scientific background in chemistry and their skills in compounding and formulation give them a unique ability to create effective products. Pharmacists are often equipped with access to key ingredients and specialized tools required for product development. Traditionally, the contributions of Black pharmacists have often been overlooked in discussions about the Black beauty industry, leading to their stories remaining largely untold. While it is impossible to highlight every individual who has shaped the field, the following section will showcase a select group of Black pharmacists between the 1900s and 1970s whose work made significant contributions to the beauty industry.
Julia Pearl Hughes Coleman
In 1909, Dr. Julia P. Hughes, together with her husband James Harold Coleman, established the Columbia Chemical Company in Washington, D.C. to manufacture a line of hair and beauty products known as “Hair-Vim.” Dr. Hughes Coleman led the company as President and Manager, while James H. Coleman also served in a managerial capacity from 1906 to 1910. Drawing on her expertise as a pharmacist and her knowledge of chemistry, Dr. Hughes Coleman created and tested various products aimed at hair and skin care, including shampoos, lotions, soaps, powders, as well as formulations designed to promote hair growth and straighten coarse or curly textures. In 1916, Dr. Coleman operated the company under the newly named Hair-Vim Chemical Company. Inspired by industry leaders like Madame C. J. Walker and Annie Turnbo Malone, Dr. Hughes Coleman also created the Hair-Vim School of Hair Culture and Personal Improvement. Her mission extended beyond business success; she was committed to uplifting her community. Dr. Hughes Coleman provided training for young women, preparing them for careers in chiropody (podiatry), manicuring, and hairdressing. Within the school’s first two years, more than 53 diplomas were awarded. Her institution earned high praise for its progressive approach and positive impact, not only by equipping women with lucrative skills but also by advancing commercial and educational opportunities for African Americans. Dr. Hughes Coleman’s enterprise flourished, necessitating several relocations to accommodate expansion. In 1919, she purchased property at 118 West 130th Street in Harlem, New York, where she established a new branch of the Hair-Vim Chemical Company. From this location, she managed her operations until her retirement.
Beebe Stevens Lynk, Ph.C.
The University of West Tennessee (UWT) was established in 1900 in Jackson, Tennessee, by Dr. Miles Vandahurst Lynk and his wife, Beebe Steven Lynk. At that time, Mrs. Lynk became the first known African American woman to co-establish an institution of higher learning in the health sciences, which offered degrees in medicine, dentistry, nursing, and pharmacy. In 1903, Beebe Steven Lynk earned her Pharmaceutical Chemist (Ph.C.) degree from UWT. Upon graduation, she became one of the earliest African American women in the country to join the faculty of a health science institution, taking on the roles of Professor of Chemistry and Pharmacy and subsequently becoming the first female Dean of its College of Pharmacy. Mrs. Lynk was also deeply interested in hair and beauty products for African American women. Drawing on her pharmaceutical chemistry expertise, she formulated recipes for cold and vanishing creams, shampoos, lotions, skin bleaching treatments, and hair growth products. These products were not manufactured or produced, but their recipes were compiled in her 1919 publication, A Complete Course in Hair Straightening and Beauty Culture (Memphis, TN: 20th Century Art Company). Although no longer in print, her book offers valuable insights into the popular beauty products and ingredients used in the early-twentieth-century Black beauty industry. It delivers practical information and guidance on hairdressing, hair straightening, shampooing, and facial massage, as well as detailed instructions for preparing: Cold creams, Vanishing cream, Face bleaching solutions, Hair growth oils and solutions, Hair straightening oils and solutions, and Shampoo solutions. The book’s main objective was to provide readers with formulas, recipes, and expert instructions for making beauty products at home. These accessible methods were designed to reduce costs for users and to supply trustworthy information from a respected medical professional.
Lillian D. Austin Robinson, Ph.C.
Lillian D. Austin Robinson began her career as a trained pharmacist before becoming a cosmetologist, beauty consultant, and hair stylist. Born on September 1, 1913, in Chattanooga, Tennessee, she was educated in the Tennessee public school system and later attended Meharry Pharmaceutical College in Nashville, earning her Ph.C. degree in 1928. She passed the state board of pharmacy examination in March 1928 and became a registered pharmacist. Her interest in Black women’s hair care emerged early, working as a beautician and hairdresser in the 1920s. By 1937, she managed May’s Beauty Shoppe, and around 1940, she established the Lidaro Beauty Clinic in Chattanooga, which eventually evolved into the Lidaro Advanced Hair Design Studio. Mrs. Robinson continued to expand her expertise in the Black beauty industry. In the 1950s, she studied at Madame C. J. Walker’s College of Beauty and completed advanced cosmetology programs at several well-known institutions, including the Robert Fiance Beauty School, the Orchid Advanced Beauty School of New York, and the Comer and Doran School of Beauty in Los Angeles—an academy recognized for its work with celebrities and the film industry. Her diverse training and widespread community involvement made her one of the most sought-after Black beauty consultants in the nation. She served as a keynote speaker, clinical director, and consultant at beauty clinics, national cosmetology conventions, vocational programs, and hairdressing workshops held at colleges, community centers, and churches in more than 30 states. Mrs. Robinson was also deeply committed to community service and professional leadership. She served as President of the Tennessee Beautician Association, Artistic Director for the Johnson Brothers Style, Fashion Revue, Talent Show, and Dance, and national President of Alpha Chi Omega Sorority. Her work received support from numerous organizations, including the Tennessee State Board of Cosmetology, the State Department of Trades and Industrial Education, Tennessee A&I University, the Chattanooga Cosmetology Association, the Orange Blossom Beautician League Unit No. 2, Nu Lox Beauty Preparations, Johnson Brothers Beauty Supply Company, and various local churches. Through her blend of pharmaceutical knowledge and cosmetology expertise, Lillian D. Robinson developed beauty and hair techniques that became very popular among beauticians for their high professional standards. Her innovative training clinics and workshops not only elevated the skills and reputations of countless beauticians and salon owners but also increased their earnings, leaving a lasting impact on the Black beauty industry.
Olivia Dalzell Tucker, Ph.C.
Olivia Dalzell Elsal Tucker was among the first Black Bermudians to earn pharmacist qualifications in the United States. Born on August 24, 1895, in Warwick, Bermuda, she entered Columbia University College of Pharmacy in 1923 and graduated with a Graduate in Pharmacy degree (Ph.G.) on September 12, 1925. In the early 1930s, Tucker contributed as a columnist to the New York Age, a leading African American newspaper. Between 1930 and 1931, she authored a weekly "Beauty and Health" column that garnered significant popularity and recognition. Her articles addressed topics ranging from hair styling and skin care to nail care and facial massages. Tucker's fascination with health and beauty likely inspired her to pursue entrepreneurial ventures. Following World War II, Tucker established Tucker Laboratories on 136th Street in New York, where she created and sold her own line of cosmetics and haircare products. Although the extent of her business’s success and influence on the Black hair and beauty market remains unclear, Tucker’s professional background and the respect she earned for sharing reputable health and beauty information were notable. Despite her expertise and prominence, she did not appear to achieve significant financial success from her business. Eventually, Tucker retired and returned to Bermuda, spending her remaining years there.
Cornell McBride and Therman McKenzie, B.S. Pharm.
M&M Products Company, headquartered in Atlanta, focused on developing hair care solutions tailored for Black consumers. The business was established in 1973 by Cornell McBride and Therman McKenzie. McBride, who grew up in Savannah, Georgia, and McKenzie, from Byronville, Georgia, first met as pre-pharmacy students at Fort Valley State College in 1967. The following year, both enrolled at Mercer University’s School of Pharmacy in Macon, where they earned their pharmacy licenses in September 1973. Before launching their company, McBride worked at Grady Memorial Hospital and McKenzie at the Revco Community pharmacy chain. While in their final year at pharmacy school, McBride and McKenzie conceived the idea of creating a product designed to condition, moisturize, and soften the coarse, dry hair commonly found among Black people. They took it upon themselves to conduct research in libraries and laboratories, experimenting with formulations they mixed in a tub in McBride’s apartment. Testing their creations first on themselves, then with cautious friends and family, they produced the initial 100 bottles and received positive feedback from their community. Encouraged by this response, they invested $500 of their own money in April 1973 to manufacture the first batch of Sta-Sof-Fro®. A few months later, they left their jobs to focus full-time on growing the Sta-Sof-Fro line. The company experienced rapid growth and success. Sales increased from $300,000 in 1975 to $9.4 million by 1979; revenue continued to climb from $25 million in 1980 to $47.3 million in 1987. M&M Products Company expanded its operations by opening manufacturing facilities in Nigeria and establishing distribution centers in Canada, Europe, and the Caribbean. For three consecutive years, Black Enterprise Magazine ranked M&M Products Company among the nation’s top 100 Black-owned businesses. M&M Products Company became known for its strong commitment to the community, supporting local charities, educational programs, the arts, and political initiatives. The company contributed to organizations such as the NAACP, UNICEF, and provided science and mathematics scholarships to Fort Valley State College and Mercer University. Additionally, M&M Products sponsored the Annual Sta-Sof-Fro Fun Run for the Sickle Cell Foundation, with proceeds benefiting the Willie Stargell Foundation. Cornell McBride was active in civic life, serving on the Democratic National Committee and the boards of the National Bank of Georgia and the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra. Therman McKenzie was honored for his leadership in fundraising as Chair of the Red Cross Campaign for Ethiopian relief, and was appointed Honorary Consul-General of Sierra Leone by President Joseph Saidu Momoh. The company also received recognition from the city’s leadership: Atlanta Mayor Maynard Jackson designated July 11, 1980, as “Cornell McBride and Therman McKenzie Day,” and Mayor Andrew Young became the first celebrity to publicly endorse M&M Products. By 1988, M&M Products Company’s annual sales had dropped from $47.2 million the previous year to $20 million, prompting the founders to seek a buyer. Although negotiations with BML Associates, Inc. of Boston initially showed promise, they ultimately fell through, and the search for a partner continued. In February 1990, M&M Products Company finalized the sale of its four major brands to Johnson Products Company Inc. of Chicago for about $12.5 million. Soon after, M&M Products Company ceased operations.